Day 16 – Driving Day
Paraburdoo to Cape Range National Park – 584km
Yardie Creek Homestead – $32 unpowered
I have nothing to say about today other than the fact I am forever thankful Hank has cruise control and does anyone have any podcast recommendations cos we’ve ran out.
Day 17 – Cape Range (Ningaloo)
WA Park Pass – $13 per vehicle or $60 for an annual pass with RAC 50% discount
Ballara Station Stay – $28 unpowered
Cape Range National Park is home to a large coral reef known as Ningaloo reef. It is basically the Wests answer to the Great Barrier Reef except the reef is much, much closer to the shore so you don’t have to visit it by boat and can swim to most parts.
There are three main snorkelling spots within Cape Range – Lakeside, Turquoise Bay and the Oyster Stacks. The underwater photos are mainly from a mixture of all three spots as I simply can’t remember which was which! We headed to Turquoise Bay first and you can definitely see why it got its name. The water was the most incredible shade of blue and crystal clear. Unfortunately 700 other people decided they were going to see it too (God damn school holidays!)
The main snorkelling area of the bay has a strong, drift current, meaning you must walk all the way down the beach before swimming out or else you’ll run out of reef before you’ve even started as the current pulls you a long and out of the best area.
Within seconds of putting on our snorkelling gear we had an issue – Matt’s snorkel had sprung a leak. Like the trooper he is, he went in just with the mask and we swam around 15m out from the shore before we saw the most stunning display of colours and life.
After a quick detour back to the visitors centre to buy a new snorkel, we headed to the Oyster Stacks, an area only accessible during high tide due to the shallow locations of the coral.
For those who don’t know, coral is easily damaged when kicked or stood on which can sadly lead to the coral dying and the loss of habiat for thousands of fish.
The entry into the water was very rocky and difficult to navigate in flippers. I think I gave up walking at around knee level and started swimming with my mask underwater and to my shock, there was already small areas of coral right next to where I had been walking on the rocks which really worried me. I’m fairly certain not all people would have been as cautious as we were when stepping.
We didn’t actually find the Oyster Stacks the area is known for, mainly due to the fact we were freezing and we needed to swim against the current to get to the right area. We did find a ton of other things including giant clams!
Finally we headed out to Lakeside (which isn’t by a lake…) by this point Matt had sunburn and decided he would sit this one out. Lakeside was the quietest of all the spots we visited and in my opinion, the best. The beach was practically empty and we could really appreciate the beauty of the coast here.
A little apprehensive going it alone, I swam out around 40m where I encountered the most incredible schools of bright colourful fish. Following the reef a long, I saw starfish and more clams before swimming into the below. I couldn’t quite believe my luck.
I returned to the beach and at this point we realised I looked like a lobster so we decided to call it a day.
I don’t normally write much about the camps we stay in but this one deserves a mention. We stayed on a working station with sheep, cows, goats and horses all milling around. There was an open fire, rustic decoration and the coolest shower I’ve ever been in which were heated by fire.
Day 18 – Coral Bay and Canarvon
Exmouth Gulf to Canarvon – 283km
Capricorn Holiday Park – $37 powered
After waking up beetroot red, we decided a chill day out of the sun was in order and started the day having scones at the station cafe where we had stayed.
Late morning we made our way to Coral Bay. Coral Bay is just south of Cape Range National Park and as the name suggests, is still part of the Ningaloo reef.
I think we imagined a small seaside town with lots of little shops and cafes so when we drove in to find two huge caravan parks with sites butted right up to the main road with literally hundreds of tents and vans we were kind of taken a back. Sure it’s the school holidays but this place makes Whitby on summer bank holiday look quiet especially when you consider it is a fraction of the size!
After spying the rammed Beach from the road and being unable to find a parking spot, we gave up, headed to Canarvon and spent the rest of the day food shopping and knocking a hockey ball around.
Day 19 – Quobba Blowholes and the ‘Aquarium’
Canarvon to Monkey Mia (via Quobba Point) – 491km
Monkey Mia Resort – $40.50 unpowered, RAC discount
After waking up to a grey, blustery day we headed to Quobba Point. (I wore jeans for the first time since early June).
On arrival, the scene was incredible. Waves crashing against the rocks in spectacular fashion and best of all, the blowholes blowing! Don’t ask me how they are formed or how it all works because I have no clue but the outcome is rather cool!
Next, we headed two minutes down the coast to Quobba Point. Though still blustery, the difference in the water was outstanding. The ‘Aquarium’ is sheltered by a strip of land creating a calm little lagoon amidst the chaos which is a haven for all kinds of sea creature.
Idiots we are, we didn’t consider checking the tide times and the Aquarium is best enjoyed at high tide (14 hours later…).
Despite this and the freezing wind, we got ready and attempted to swim through the channels of coral to the deeper pockets of water near the jut of land. Sadly, it was no use, we were too scared of damaging the coral in waters that were barely 75cm deep.
I can however imagine how incredible it must be at high tide. In the time we were there we saw countless fish and other sea creatures so I’m sure it would be amazing.
Day 20 – Monkey Mia
Monkey Mia to Galena Bridge – 319km
Monkey Mia entrance fee – $15pp
Galena Bridge free camp no shower
Yesterday evening we arrived at the Monkey Mia resort. Monkey Mia is known for it’s ‘wild’ dolphins that visit the beach each morning. We had heard how over commercialised the whole thing was and that it was basically a tourist trap but still wanted to see for ourselves.
The resort itself gave me Center Parcs vibes but much smaller and with less activities plus campsites. Just to remind you, this is still during half term… we arrived bright and early at the jetty for the ‘dolphin experience’ a long with around 150 other people.
Four or five dolphins could already be seen by the jetty and the ranger knew each by name as they visit every day just like their parents before them decades a go.
They say they feed them just 10% of their daily requirement of food so the dolphins are not reliant on the supply and still go and hunt fish. Then spectators are picked at random to go into the water to feed the dolphins. I didn’t get picked but some how restrained from throwing a tantrum unlike every kid present…
Afterwards, we left the resort and made our way back inland to the highway, stopping at every look out point on the way, visiting a beach made entirely of cockle shells and viewing the stromatolites.
Lauren Travels 